Race Report: Jungle Ultra

Thank you to iRunFar for publishing my race report from the Jungle Ultra. It's a good overview of the race and provides all the detail of each stage I ran in the jungle.

Slogging through the jungle on Stage 4: The Lull.

There are some more photos from the jungle here which show more of the terrain and race experience.


The Jungle Ultra by Beyond the Ultimate is a relatively new event: 2014 was the third edition. The organizer, Wes Crutcher, ran in the Brazil Jungle Ultra in 2009 and wanted to create his own event that would expose runners to similar jungle challenges and yet improve on areas he thought could be done better. The result is the Jungle Ultra: a 230k, five-stage, self-sufficiency race through Manu National Park in Peru.

Manu National Park is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve, an approximately four-hour’s drive from Cusco. It is known for its great biodiversity as the park covers part of the Andes and part of the Amazon Basin. There is a range of different forests from the cloud forest on the slopes of the Andes, which is a catchment area for the Amazon River, to the Amazon rainforest, which reaches to Bolivia, Columbia, and Brazil. It is estimated that the park may support more than 500,000 species of living organisms!

I competed in the race as my fourth multi-stage event. I had raced in the desert in my previous three races and was looking for a new adventure, to challenge myself in different terrain, and I couldn’t resist the opportunity to visit the Amazon. As the format of the race was similar to the previous races I had done, my general preparation followed a similar approach to past race training. The key differences I needed to prepare for were the humidity and heat, which I did by going to Bikram Yoga classes, and sleeping in a hammock, which I did by taking naps in my hammock in the local park. With the exceptions of the hammock and putting all my gear inside a dry bag in my pack, all of my food and kit were the same as I used in the desert.


Stage 1: Cloud 9

The camp for the night before the first stage was in the cloud forest. We were given a pre-race briefing explaining what to do if we were bitten by snakes, spiders, or any other insects and carefully warned that “everything in the jungle can hurt you!” We also received our numbers, a Spot GPS device, and had the gear check. Required gear was similar to other multi-stage races: 1,500 kilocalories per day of food, a medical kit and blister-repair kit, overnight clothing, a sleeping bag, 2.5 liters of water capacity, and a hammock to sleep in.

The start of the race was at an altitude of 10,100 feet in the cloud forest and the stage quickly descended as we headed into the rainforest. When the gun went off I set off at a steady pace and quickly found myself ahead of all the international competitors and amongst the local Peruvians who were laughing and joking about the hard breathing of those not acclimatized to the altitude. (There are two categories in the race: international competitors who are self-sufficient and carry everything and locals who are encouraged to take part, but who don’t have to be self-sufficient and can sleep in their homes if the race passes by their village.)

Fortunately, the route quickly descended into the forest and toward a river which made the breathing a little easier as we were losing altitude. The first checkpoint was on the banks of the river. I arrived in a good time and had started to get a feel for the conditions. The first obstacles of the race were crossing the river and a steep climb out of the river valley. I paced myself and slowly caught a few of the Peruvian runners.

Once out of the river valley, the route followed a narrow dirt road that hugged the steep Andean slopes and descended all the way to the finish. The view was spectacular and the purpose of the route was to show off the cloud forest and the descent into the jungle–a perfect first stage. On this section it started to rain, and as we were getting closer to the rain forest with each step, the route turned into a slippery and mushy mud path. As I was at the front, I pushed the pace and made the most of the opportunity to try and put myself ahead of the other competitors. It worked and I arrived at camp happy with the day’s effort and blown away by the scenery of the cloud forest.


Stage 2: Amazonia

A comfortable first night in the hammock meant that I was ready for the second stage even though my quads hurt a little from all the downhill on the first stage. Most people felt the same sore legs, but we were all pleased that the descent on the first stage meant easier breathing and a less-demanding start to the second stage. The route wound down further into the valley toward the village of San Pedro. The pace started off fast as some runners hoped to make as much of an advantage as possible before turning directly into the jungle.

In San Pedro we turned onto a narrow path that took us out of the open and direct sunlight into the Amazon rainforest for the first time. It was a huge contrast! Inside the forest it was dark and shadowed from the tall trees, hot and humid, and the trail was a mess. Every step was treacherous as the path wound into the forest over wet moss-covered rocks that never felt stable underfoot and to make it even more difficult there was always a few inches of water on the ground obscuring any view of the trail. ‘Slow and steady’ was my motto and I tried my best to maintain a reasonable yet safe pace.

After crossing another river the path turned into a muddy–but fortunately rock-free–singletrack. It was easier running when the gradient was level, which seemed to be only a small proportion in the final section to the finish. It was stunning in the jungle and the views and excitement of being in the rainforest motivated me to keep on pushing. I saw a line of leaf-cutter ants which looked exactly like what I’ve seen on TV. Unfortunately, there was no time to stop as I forged on to the finish aiming to extend my lead from the previous stage by a few minutes.

The camp after Stage 2 was much warmer, more remote, and a lot less comfortable than the previous nights. Setting up my hammock I was bitten by two bullet ants which felt like I was being stabbed by a scalpel! I quickly moved my hammock to a slightly better spot and spent an unhappy night hoping I wouldn’t get too wet as thunderstorms poured rain onto the camp. I wasn’t so lucky and the next morning I got up much earlier than I had hoped to try and dry myself and my gear so I wouldn’t be carrying too much extra weight in my pack.


Stage 3: Logging

This stage would take us through an area of the Amazon that is not controlled and logging is allowed–hence the stage name. Two Spaniards, Xavi Marina and Tony Andrades, started hard and fast to arrive first at the zip wire to cross a huge river at five kilometers. I settled down into a group with these two and would remain with them most of the stage.

The zip wire was awesome fun. Crossing such a raging torrent on foot was out of the question and I’m glad we could glide above it. On the other side Xavi, Tony, and I set off together into the half-wild, half-tamed jungle. The farmers have tried and failed for generations to log and tame the wildlands so we passed from relatively open areas growing coca to thick jungle and shadows. It was a little unsettling and difficult to find a pace as the route changed so frequently and offered mud and inconsistent footing all the way.

I was really enjoying being in a group and experiencing the route together with some friends. It made the upcoming challenge of an old logging track much easier to endure. The track twisted its way through jungle that was so dense that it blocked out any sunlight, leaving the track wet and muddy. It looked like the width of a normal truck and had an almost smooth surface; however, this was completely untrue. There were effectively three sections to the track: the two tire tracks and a raised section in the middle. The problem was that the tire tracks were deep ruts filled with water and almost impossible to see. The middle section was mud ranging from a few inches to a foot deep. Any misstep led to sliding into a tire track and muddy water which sometimes came up to my waist!

Xavi and I pushed ahead in this section, but it was slow going and drained my energy. The thick mud, frequent slips into deep water, and then battling back onto the right path took its toll. It seemed that we were moving faster than anyone else, though, so we kept pushing each other to stay out in front. The finish at Santa Rosa was a just reward for a hard day out: a small village with some of the only 300 indigenous people who are allowed to live in the park (apart from the un-contacted tribes deeper into the jungle). We were given handmade jewelry, shown how to shoot a bow, and promised a forecast of no rain for that night. I couldn’t have been happier.


Stage 4: The Lull

At first glance it would appear that the stage name, ‘The Lull,’ was hinting at an easier day before the final long stage. Nothing could be further from the truth. The name is a warning not to let the short 36k distance lull you into a sense of security since this stage is supposed to be the toughest single stage in any of Beyond the Ultimate’s events. It includes tough jungle trails, rocky creeks, fallen trees, steep inclines, thorns, and spikes two inches long as well as bullet ants, which love to bite any hand put down on any surface.

I started cautiously with a plan to maintain an overall lead by running with the leaders of the day. My Spanish friends, encouraged by their progression up the ranking the previous day, set the pace in front. It was even slower going than I expected. Every path was slippery, muddy, and mixed up with roots and rocks. The route was never level with small inclines and declines and curving trails that threaded through the trees. The uncertain footing, camber, and multiple curves made every step a potential fall and even though there were plenty of branches and trees to grab onto they were no help. I quickly realized that the warning in the course briefing that anything could hurt us in the jungle was true. Within the first hour I had already cut my fingers and hands on sharp bamboo and spikes and had been bitten my multiple ants. I quickly adopted a hands-off approach!

The route was the most difficult I have ever run and at the same time one of the most incredible experiences I have had in a race. There were many moments where I felt almost overwhelmed by my surroundings and just looked up into the dense canopy, awed to be running for fun in the middle of the Amazon jungle. One of my best memories is coming out of a sliding, out-of-control, muddy descent onto the edge of a river that I had to cross by jumping onto an inflated truck inner tube and pulling myself across by grabbing a wet and limp rope. It was surreal.

The final challenge of the stage was a massive 1,000-meter climb through thick jungle trails. If I thought there was no way that the stage could get more difficult than it had been then I was wrong. The terrible footing, curving trails, spiky trees, and off-camber trails continued and now they were at a steep gradient. Xavi and I marched up the route in what felt like a procession. For me, having company at this point helped me the most in the race. When we arrived at the finish, I was completely spent after battling for six hours over only 36k through the jungle. ‘The Lull’ lived up to its name.


Stage 5: The Long One

The final stage was intended to be 92k with approximately 50 river crossings, starting in the village of Pillcopata and looping through the jungle to arrive back in Pillcopata for the finish. The route would include features of every other stage of the jungle we had already experienced: a 12k climb to overlook the Carbon River, weaving in and out of a river road for 14k, a jungle section known as ‘Viper Alley,’ and some open exposed areas with the sun beating down during the hottest part of the day. The stage also included a cutoff for competitors who didn’t make it to a certain point by the evening, as later sections of the jungle are too dangerous with black caiman and jaguar active at night!

My strategy was the same as the previous three days, which was to maintain an overall lead. As I had run hard during the first two stages I had a decent cushion over Xavi in second and Tony in third. It also meant I could run with company for part of the day. We started strongly, but also with the knowledge that 92k is never easy, especially in the jungle with packs and after four hard stages. The first few hours in the morning were really fun running. We ran a manageable pace, the terrain was spectacular, and some of the checkpoints even had some fresh pawpaw and mango that the villagers had cut for us. (All other checkpoints during this self-sufficient race provide only water at checkpoints.) Compared to the tough six hours of the previous day, the first half of this stage ticked by quickly.

At the halfway point, we were informed that the route had been changed. The rain that we had been running in all morning had flooded some of the rivers in the later part of the stage. In the first half we had run in a wide river that the logging trucks use as a road. It was a strange experience of crossing from bank to bank in water that varied from ankle deep to almost waist deep. A similar section was supposed to be run in the later half of the race but the flooding meant the water was shoulder deep and too dangerous to cross. The route was shortened by about 10k and the last sections were very runnable compared to the original jungle and river route.

Xavi and I pulled ahead of Tony and cruised along at an even pace. The route wasn’t thick jungle, but it did curve along the side of hills that provided great views over the Madre de Dios River and the jungle basin. It wasn’t as tough as planned and yet in many ways it was a fitting end to the race as it mirrored the starting stage where we looked down into the jungle wondering what was coming. This time we could look back on an unbelievable journey and remember all the jungle experiences we had been through.

I could feel a deep fatigue setting in and I was happy to count down each kilometer as I approached the finish. It felt like the whole village of Pillcopata was waiting as I ran along the main street into the plaza. Some little children ran alongside me to the finish line, the regional radio presenter was calling out over the microphone, and there were throngs of people in the plaza. I loved it! I had completed a tremendously difficult race, seen a part of the world that fascinated me, and achieved my race goal of winning in a time of 27 hours.

Running in the jungle is tough. Every day offers character-building challenges and a chance to see a remote part of the planet. If you’re not scared of snakes, or ants, or spiders, or jaguars, or caiman, if you don’t mind being wet for a week, and if you do enjoy sleeping out in a hammock, then I would highly recommend racing in the jungle. It’s like no other place I’ve ever run.



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Winter in Santiago

I was away from Santiago for three weeks for the Jungle Ultra in Peru. It was already cooling down and transitioning into winter before I left, but when I got back it was definitely winter. This is my fourth winter in Santiago and I've only seen snow on Cerro Manquehue and Cerro Carbon once before [these are the two most accessible mountains about 3km from my apartment]. This winter it's already snowed on these mountains twice!

I headed out to run in the snow this morning and was fortunate to see the moon set and the sun rise. It was a spectacular morning and I really enjoyed myself. I love running in the snow and haven't had a chance to do it since I was living in AK so this was a real treat.

The moon setting behind a cloud-covered city.

Clouds sweeping through the city bowl.

This is a lot of snow so low on Cerro Carbon.

It was pure powder on top of the mountain.

Summit of Cerro Carbon with the sun rising behind Cerro Manquehue.

A beautiful sunrise this morning.

Multi-stage race backpacks (part 4)

This is the fourth installment in a series of reviews of multi-stage backpacks (part 1, part 2, part 3).

The previous posts were based on reviews from friends who had run the Atacama Crossing and the Sahara Race. They covered a range of packs from Raidlight to OMM and Salomon. This edition includes two reviews from friends who ran the Jungle Ultra with me. I'm quite pleased to add these reviews as they cover two packs that are newer models and they are becoming very popular packs at stage races.

Majo Srnik and the WAA MDS ULTRABAG 20l
 

1. What pack did you use during the race?
I used the WAA ultrabag (MDS).

2. Did the pack have enough capacity for all your gear?
Yes, the pack is very well made. I think that the Jungle Ultra is a very hard race so I was carrying more stuff than I wanted to, nonetheless, I had no problems at all with capacity. [This was Majo's first stage race and I'm sure in the future he'll have much more refined and lighter contents in his pack.]

3. What was the final weight of your pack and hydration system (without water)?
I believe 9.5kg was the weight on the start line.

4. How did the pack fit and ride while you were running?
Great! I needed to adjust the straps each day after the start as the pack was changing in size as I ate all of my food. As soon as it was correctly set up the bag was amazing!

5. What did you use for hydration (front bottle, bladder, etc)?
Two front bottles [750ml] and a bladder in the pack even though I'm not a big fan of bladders. [The race required carrying a minimum of 2.5l of water from each checkpoint].

6. Did you use the external pockets on the pack? What for?
Yes I did. The pockets on the waist belt I used for powdered "food" and electrolytes and that sort of stuff. The front pack I had loaded with everything I would need for one day of running so I would never have to take off my pack to look for things; it was very handy and didn't move much once I had it set up correctly.

7. Did anything break on your pack during the race? 
No. The only thing that changed is that the bright yellow pack is not so bright any more!

8. Was there any specific feature that you particularly liked?
Yes, the front pack that I mentioned before and the rain cover / rain poncho that was included as a part of the pack.

9. Was there anything that you would change about the bag?
Not really. I love this set up. The only thing was that the water bottles were not that good; I would invest in some better bottles next time.

10. Would you recommend the pack and would you use it again?
Absolutely! I was very happy with it and can't wait to run another race with the same bag. Now we have a special bond that will last forever :).


Matt Knight and the OMM Adventure 20l
 

1. What pack did you use during the race?
I used the OMM 20l Adventure.

2. Did the pack have enough capacity for all your gear?
The pack was just right to get all my kit in for the jungle.

3. What was the final weight of your pack and hydration system (without water)?
Without water my pack weighed in at 8kg.

4. How did the pack fit and ride while you were running?
The pack was secure whilst running and felt great with no chafing.

5. What did you use for hydration (front bottle, bladder, etc)?
For hydration I used the side mesh pockets for 500ml bottles and I bought the OMM water bottle carriers and taped these on my shoulder straps. [The race required carrying a minimum of 2.5l of water from each checkpoint].

6. Did you use the external pockets on the pack? What for?
I used the external pockets on the waist for salt tablets, shot blox and gels.

7. Did anything break on your pack during the race? 
Nothing broke on the pack but if you are going to use the OMM pack I would suggest adding on water bottle carriers. I recommend having them stitched on to the straps professionally.

8. Was there any specific feature that you particularly liked?
Mainly comfort overall it what I liked best about the pack.

9. Was there anything that you would change about the bag?
The waist strap pockets are too far apart. If they were nearer to the front it would be easier to access them for your snacks, gels etc.

10. Would you recommend the pack and would you use it again?
I would recommend this pack for jungle environment, however for a desert race I'd rather use the Raidlight Olmo 20l [Matt liked the Raidlight pack for the desert because it was compact and you can attach a sleeping bag to the outside of it which is better suited to desert conditions. The water bottle holders are also of good quality and the pack felt very comfortable in extreme heat when Matt ran MDS.]

From the Andes to the Amazon - in photos

Getting started in the Cloud Forest at 3,000m altitude.

The first obstacle on stage 1, 12km in.

Rise and shine: time to take on stage 2.

The first section of jungle after the Cloud Forest - hot and humid.

There's water everywhere in the jungle and 70 river crossings in the race.

Wet feet from the start on Stage 3.

It was awesome to run with Xavi for this stage.

The Amazon Jungle!

Stage 4 was deep in the jungle and tough going all day.

More river crossings with Xavi and Tony trying to cool themselves down.

An early start for the 92km stage 5 (which was shortened due to flooding).

Tricky footing after another river crossing,

Beautiful, wet and humid.

I was feeling the distance at the end of stage 5.

Happy at the finish in Pillcopata with Xavi (and Neus).

The boss of the jungle

I was in the newspaper today! El Mercurio is the most wide-read newspaper in Chile so it's fantastic to have such a large article included in the paper (especially in the sport section with the World Cup approaching). Claudio Herrera wrote a great article and it's clear that he's a part of the trail running community here and understands our world - we've raced and trained together so it was a pleasure to catch-up with him.

The article is in Spanish and I've included a translation to English below.

El Mercurio, pg 41, Wednesday 4 June 2014.

DANIEL ROWLAND WON THE 2014 JUNGLE ULTRA IN PERU (230 KILOMETERS)
The boss of the jungle
The Zimbabwean living in Chile has become a specialist in stage racing. Here the methods of a guy who left everything to run at the highest level.

Claudio Herrera

Daniel Rowland was born 30 years ago in Zimbabwe, he studied finance in South Africa and got a top job in a multi-national mining company. His work led him to live in Alaska and later in Chile where he's been for the last two years.

But he was putting off his greatest passion: running ultra-marathon races. Rowland thought it was now or never and left everything behind to dedicate himself exclusively to training. He has endurance in his blood. His father Jonathan completed 11 Comrades Marathons, one of the oldest ultra-marathons on the planet. "Today I can say that I'm not winning money, I'm using my savings, but I'm happy" he said, after winning the Jungle Ultra, a test of 230km.

The African has transformed himself into an expert in stage racing, he already won the Atacama Crossing and KAEM last year, races of 250km. His strength, he thinks, is discipline. In short, an ultramarathoner nerd [this is the best translation I have for a slang Chilean word. My friend Matias tells me that everyone wants to be a "nerd", but no one admits to it!]

"I like stage racing because you have to consider all the details: food, the route, competitors. I have been improving as a runner, but my strength is in the planning. For the Jungle Ultra, I trained with my race backpack (6.5kg), in blocks that simulated the five days of the race and with my race diet - consisting of 2,200 calories per day _ and I also did many bikram yoga sessions to acclimatize to the humidity" he explained.

"Everything helps because we ran in temperatures of up to 35C and 95% humidity. You can't imagine the jungle until you're in it, it's dark with lots of roots. I didn't see any animals, but other competitors spoke of snakes and wild boar. I don't know, I run very focused, I spend a lot of time preparing for a race and I can't let myself be distracted" he said.

Rowland (with sponsors Lafuma, Hoka, 32Gi and Injinji) is now preparing to step up to the classic 100 mile races, hoping to "professionalize" his passion. "It's now or never, running makes me happy, the rest is not that important".


Photo caption: Rowland at the finish line in Pillcopata in the middle of Manu National Park. He finished in a total of 27 hours, winning four of the five stages. 

Jungle Ultra 2014 - 1st

I completed my first goal race of 2014 in the Amazon Jungle in Peru, winning in a time of 27:01:20. It was great to be challenged by a new environment, meet new competitors in the trail running world and participate in a race by Beyond the Ultimate.

Sticky, muddy and tired and not even half way yet!

Full race report here.